Climbing Directions for Mount Hood

    Mount Hood is a serious mountain climb.  It is highly advised that you take a mountaineering class or have mountaineering experience before you undertake this climb.  Mount Hood is a good start for technical climbing, but it should never be taken lightly.  (SEE THE MOUNT HOOD HELICOPTER CRASH VIDEO)

    Most climbs begin at the Timberline Lodge.  The Timberline Lodge is only 3.5 miles from the summit, and the summit looks like you can reach out and touch it.  Don't let this proximity to the summit fool you.  Although it looks close, it's quite a climb to the top even in good weather.

    You can take a ski lift up to the 7000 foot level.  This will knock off about 1000 feet of the climb.  The ski lifts, however, don't start operating until too late in the day.  If you make it a two day climb, the ski lifts are not a bad idea.  (You can also take a guided trip to the summit.  Check out Timberline Mountain Guides)

    Follow the ski slopes up to the top of the Palmer lift at 8,500 feet.  Watch out for skiers and snowboarders.  Remember, the Mount Hood ski area is open all year.  From the top of the lift, head up the mountain.  There is a nice plateau around 9,200 feet.  This is a great place to camp if you're doing a two day trip.  It's just below the smell of Devil's Kitchen and high enough to give you a good start in the early morning.  If you are doing a two day trip, I would suggest a 4:00 am to 5:00 am start from this location.

    Climb with Crater Rock to your left and Devil's Kitchen to your right.  Devil's Kitchen is a filled with fumaroles.  (A fumarole is a vent or opening through which issue steam, hydrogen sulfide, or other gases. The craters of many dormant volcanoes contain active fumaroles.)  Once you pass Devil's Kitchen, you will begin your ascent of the hogsback.  This is a good place to put on your crampons.  You can rope up here, but most wait until the top of the hogsback  The hogsback is a snow ridge which extends towards the summit.

    At the top of the hogsback, during the climbing season, you will encounter the bergschrund.    (A bergschrund is the crevasse that separates flowing ice from stagnant ice at the head of a glacier.)  The size of the bergschrund varies during the season.  It grows larger as the weather gets warmer.

    At this point, you can proceed to the left up the "Old Crater" Route or proceed straight up "The Chutes" past the "Pearly Gates."  The "Pearly Gates" route is very narrow and is prone to rock fall.  Later in the season, the "Old Crater" Route seems to make more sense.  The summit is just above the "Pearly Gates," off to your right.  On the "Old Crater" route, make a sharp right turn once you've come to the top of the glacier.  Follow the ridge to the summit.  There is no USGS marker on the summit. 

    Be very careful on the way down.  Remember that most climbing accidents occur on the descent.  Once you've passed Devil's Kitchen, don't miss out on some great glissading.  With the right conditions, you can glissade all the way down to the Timberline Lodge.  It sure beats walking.

Approximate round trip hiking time:  10 to 12 hours

Approximate round trip distance:    7 miles

Approximate elevation gain:    5,300 feet